This, from Swedish chef Niklas Ekstedt, focuses on a particular cooking method: cooking over flame. Its intro covers the practical elements for great results: wood, fire, iron, smoke and fat, before a chapter on basic ingredients, including making your own butter, rye bread and pickling liquid. There's plenty of herring and roe in the "small dishes" chapter (try the juniper-smoked turbot, roasted onion and brown butter mayonnaise), while venison meatballs with red cabbage salad and blackened apple is a standout elsewhere.